Oh Kolkata!

November 20, 2017

Yes, it's a corny title but fits my impressions perfectly.

First impressions were favourable despite landing late at night. A big modern airport where I encountered a slow immigration line as one official did a full fingerprint check and face image of all the arrivals with e-visas, but no worse than other places. Fast taxi ride along some main roads and then through deserted streets with surprisingly little traffic. Had to stop putting my right foot through the floor a few times. The hotel is fine, although not very prepossessing from outside. Pleasant spacious room with desk fridge kettle safe etc. All set for my sightseeing tomorrow.

Monday 13th November

Interesting buffet breakfast with fresh omelette. All the other guests look to be Indian. Very courteous staff who seem very keen on feedback. Both in forms and verbally.

Out on the street it is hot, sunny and noisy. Indian horns must have a duty cycle of >50%!

Street vendors occupy every available niche and there are few conventional shops despite the fact that Park Street is supposed to be the commercial centre of the city. Further on I found the old colonial era buildings for which Kolkata is famous but many of them look semi-derelict with trees growing out of their upper stories. Can't help comparing the mayhem and griminess of Kolkata with the sophistication of Shanghai showing off it's beautifully restored and maintained 19th century buildings . Further north I found myself in the hardware zone, stalls, shops and whole alleyways devoted to hooks, chains, brackets, pipes and pumps along with food and spice vendors. My plan was to reach the Hooghly bridge but this proved more difficult than expected. The first side street towards the river was packed with trucks being loaded up by dozens of men carrying sacks, then stopped at a level crossing as a train came through before finding myself in a flower and veg market before finally reaching the bridge. Can't believe how many men still earn a living, probably a pittance, by physically hauling huge sacks of goods around. Reminded of the quote from Bertrand Russel:

Work is of two kinds: first, altering the position of matter at or near the earth's surface relatively to other such matter; second, telling other people to do so. The first one is unpleasant and ill paid; the second is pleasant and highly paid.

In India, I think it is as true today as when he wrote it.

In one of the parks there was a rally in support of the Communist Party, celebrating the Russian Revolution. Guess, if you grow up poor in Kolkata, it's quite appealing.

Still Pumping Water by Hand in one of Kolkata's Main Thoroughfares

Couldn't not have the inevitable photo of an Ambassador taxi or Two

One of the Better Preserved Colonial Era Buildings

Government House

St John's Church

Royal Insurance Building

Trees Sprouting from the Rooftops

High Capacity Broadband?

Never Know When You Might Need Some Steel Balls

Manual Labour

More Manual Labour

Bridge over the Hooghly River

Washing in the Hooghly River

Spices!

Flower Garland Market

Apparently they are Marigolds.
And almost all of them are of a variety that came from Mexico

Looks like a Hard Way to earn a Living

Home with Air Conditioning!

Next to Tyres R Us

Not many Communist Parties still see Stalin as a Hero

Back towards BBD Bagh, formerly Dalhousie Square, which is more of a park than a square. Confusingly the name seems to be used for the whole of the area around. Amazed at the number of small white cars with notices saying that they are on government business and dozens of police vans that appear to be just parked, particularly opposite the Writers Buildings.

By now a cold drink and an escape from the traffic seemed a good idea so into the Lalit Grand hotel for an iced lemon tea and a piece of cheesecake in cool, quiet luxury. The cheesecake wouldn't win any awards and my expert friend on these matters, would tell me it wasn't cheese cake at all, but it filled a space and the tea was refreshing.

Writers Building.
Part of the Colonial Administration.
Now looks Empty and Forlorn

Homage to the Gods of Empire

Gaggle of Geese in the Park

The lake in BBD Bagh

All these Cars Claim to be on Government Duty

Kolkata Police Cars on Active Duty.
Don't let the Grass grow Under your Feet,
or the Leaves Collect on your Bonnet

Continued my walk about to the neo-classical town hall and Victorian gothic law courts. Back at the hotel, a cup of tea in the room along with some chocolates, beautifully presented on a small plate, revived me.